(A) SIMPLE REPAIR OF A SEPARATED DRIVER:
        Old drive wheels frequently dry out, resulting in separation of the metal rim from the whitewall insulator. As a result of this, the metal rims can come in contact with the chassis. This in turn creates a short across the two rails. You cannot operate the engine this way without causing damage to the motor.
        Repair of this separation can usually be done quite simply, without having to pull the driver off the axle.
        (1) Remove all linkage from that side of the engine.
        (2) Clean all grease, dirt, and oil out of the "gap" between the rim and the whitewall, using a little tuner cleaner or rubbing alcohol on a tissue or pipe cleaner.
        (3) Apply a tiny amount of superglue in the gap and spread it evenly around the whitewall with a toothpick.
        (4) Carefully squeeze the two parts back together tightly. This is best done with two small screwdrivers placed under the rim, one on each side of the wheel. Be sure the whitewall is evenly and fully seated within the rim.
        (5) Replace all linkage.

(B) DRIVERS SLIPPING ON THEIR AXLES?
       If you have a drive-wheel which is loose and slipping on its axle, there are a couple of repair tips to attempt before you replace the entire wheel.  If slippage is due to wear within the axle-hole, more-often-than-not, this can be corrected by removing the wheel, placing it flat on top of a vise, and firmly hitting the axle-hole with a ball peen hammer. Then flip the wheel over and do the same on the rear side. This will usually tighten up the hole enough that it will firmly grip the axle.  As a second possibility, if you notice that the axle end has badly-worn splines, remove the axle and rap that with a hammer as well, reshaping the end of the axle slightly.

(C) REBUILDING A DAMAGED DRIVER:
        In order to repair a damaged driver, it is necessary to pull the wheel off the axle and dis-assemble the three parts of the wheel.
      (1) Pull driver from ONE side only.  
      (2) Place driver upside down on top of an open film canister, and tap on the backside of the central hub. The canister is just the right size to support the rim and allow the hub to fall into the canister. 
      (3) Carefully remove the whitewall from the old rim. Hopefully, it will not break. If it does, they are replaceable.  
      (4) Clean all parts of grease and oil.  
      (5) Reassemble the wheel in reverse order, using the new rim. A drop or two of superglue spread with a toothpick will hold everything together fine. Note that the hub is tapered, so you must insert it into the rim and whitewall from the FRONT, not from the rear.  If insertion of the hub into the whitewall is a very tight fit, consider heating the combined rim/whitewall in hot water for 2-3 minutes. Then insert the hub from the front side of the whitewall.
      (6) Mount on axle, paying attention to necessary quartering. For most engines, this can be done adequately by "eyeballing"  it. Northern and 0-8-0 engines can be a bit trickier to quarter correctly without the proper tool.  
      (7) For easiest quartering, spin the motor so that the drivers on one side of the engine are all aligned with the linkage screw-holes at the bottom of the wheel rotation. Hold them firmly in place with your hand while turning the engine over. The drivers on the opposite side should now be aligned with all the linkage screw-holes 90-degrees off from the first side (i.e, either all at the forward point, or the rear point, in their rotation.  
      (8) Carefully place the loose driver on the axle, correctly positioned. Press it in place with your fingers. Then gently tap it on the rest of the way, with the opposite-side driver supported against something like a vise top.  (A better option is the use of wheel cups to press the wheels, if you happen to have them.)  
      (9) Check proper wheel gauging when finished. 
      (10) Repeat with the driver on opposite side.  

Parts available for driver repairs include:

• Flanged rim, plain:  $10/pair  (specify 1.33", or 1.38" outside diameter)
• Flanged Pullmor rim, with vulcanized rubber tread:  $20 per pair  (specify 1.33", or 1.38" outside diameter)
• Flanged Pullmor rim, with vulcanized rubber tread, for 0-8-0:  $20 per pair .
• Flanged rim, 0-8-0, plain:  $5.00
• Non-flanged ("blind") rim, plain:  $3.75
• Non-flanged ("blind") rim 0-8-0, , plain:  $5.00
• Whitewall insulator, standard: $5.00 per pair
• Whitewall insulator, 0-8-0: $7.00 per pair
• Replacement Pullmor bands, standard (adhere with superglue): $2.75
• Replacement Pullmor bands, 0-6-0 & 0-8-0 (adhere with superglue): $2.75
• Replacement thick Pullmor bands, standard (for later grooved drivers): $2.50
• Hubs, standard steam (original): $3.00 each

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