LINK-COUPLER (LC) TO KNUCKLE-COUPLER (KC) CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS

AN AMERICAN FLYER® REPAIR CLINIC

From Port Lines Hobbies

LC REMOVAL: The pin needs to be popped backward through the coupler. There is a Gilbert "tool" to do this, but it really isn't even worth the $2.00 that it costs! It is simply a hollow tube the same diameter as the head of the LC pin. Against a vise, you tap on the other end of the LC pin until it pops backward down into the tube. I never use that method. I find this to be the easiest way to remove a LC pin:

(a) pop out the wheel-and-axle set from the truck, to get it out of the way;
(b) using a pair of needle-nose pliers, squeeze between the tip of the pin and the sheet-metal flange of the truck, which the pin is passing through (you can just barely get hold of the edge of it). If you squeeze between these 2 points 2-3 times, it will usually pop the pin backwards through the coupler.

(c) After removing the link coupler, usually that truck coupler sheet-metal flange gets bent a bit, and also needs a little un-bending, First, it's a little low for the KC, so using the pair of needle nose pliers, slightly straighten out the 'dog bone' in the mounting shank, not by much, about a 1/16" change or less. Then make certain the shank is parallel with the truck sides, and the tang w/ the hole in it is vertical. This way, your coupler will fit squarely and you won't have to bend it up at an angle to get the hanging lift-weight to clear the track by 1/16" in the closed position.

(d) The replacement KC has a slot in it. With the car upside-down, the slot drops over that s/m flange, and the KC is held there with the split pin by pushing it through the hole that the LC pin used to go through. Just spread the pin's sides a bit, and you're in business! Don't get too ambitious with bending the split pin either, just enough to keep things in place will do. Believe me, this is all a LOT easier and simpler than it sounds! Now, putting the LC's back again is another story. To do that, you really DO need a special tool in order to crimp the pin back onto that flange.

PARTS AVAILABILITY:

Conversion knuckle couplers: $1.50 each. (These are the BEST quality KC available!)

KC conversion split-pins: .15 each (shiny/plated); .20 each (blackened)

Gilbert LC removal tube $2.00; or 2-piece tool $5.00

LC Setting tool: $9.50 These tools are used with a hammer, and work well, especially if you are one of those unusual folks who have 3 hands!
Replacement LC with pin: $3.00 (1946 type----thin shank; no weight)

$1.50 (1947 type----no weight, with pin)

$3.00 (1948 type----brass weight, with pin)

$2.50 (1949+ type---- black weight, with pin)

Additional pins: .50 each

We also carry the "Brakeman's Super-Riveter", a superb hammerless tool used to remove and reset LC, as well as set truck rivets. It's not cheap....but it's excellent for the repairman who would make a lot of use of it!

$64 for the BSR with truck riveting tip, plus backing post & base.

Add $25 for the tip and backing post to both remove and reset LC.

Add $24 for the tip and backing post to set the hollow brass eyelets used on later AF.

For inquiries CLICK HERE

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